I decided to be adventurous and rent a motorscooter on the island, and I have to say that this is an absolute must. On my first day with the scooter I managed to see a small sign for a restaurant on the beach by the river, aptly named "River Restaurant". I hadn't quite mastered the scooter at this point so the jungle/driveway was a bit tricky to negotiate but the result was well worth the effort. Two raised, covered platforms sat near a small patio restaurant where a mother sat playing with her son. I picked the platform nearest the restaurant, slipped off my sandals, and stretched my legs on the mat floor, leaning back on the supplied prism-shaped cushion. Not knowing anything else about Thai food I ordered a curry, rice, and the ever-present cup of tea, and began to soak in the scenery.
The restaurant was indeed, as advertised, next to a small river. The river carves its way through the beach to create a tiny embankment and gurgling creek before mixing with the salty sea. To my left is the restaurant deck, empty save for the naked boy lying on his stomach and examining the toy in his hand (though under the watchful eye of her mother in the rear kitchen). To my right is the empty second platform, followed by the river and then a curved beach stretching out to a rocky peninsula. Behind is the jungle and all its myriad noises, and in front of course is the endless sea. After my curry I finished my tea, and then another, and eventually scrambled my way back up the trail. It was a great place, my own secret sanctuary, where I returned several times but never found another traveler near.