The last waterfall that I intend to see on this journey (though there are plenty more for the stonger-willed) is the Cascada Pailon del Diablo. Silver wearily drags me into town, where I see a sign advertising "waterfall, this direction". I follow the sign to a road, to a cobblestone path, to a group of cabanas set back along a river. It turns out that the sign, though accurate, actually leads to the top of the waterfall, not the bottom where most viewing is traditionallydone. Regardless, the top is well worth the trip as it's an amazing sight.

Jagged volcanic rock, like a cubical chocolate-chips melted together, forms a rough gully thorugh which pours the turbulent river water. Beneath the lip is a wide gorge between steep narrowing walls almost enclosed at the top. Finally, out of this intermediate holding gorge flows the top of the waterfall proper.

At the top of this scene is a fantastic restaurant at which I ate the best chicken sandwich of my life, washed down with a cup of tea.